Salvia Seed, Cathedral Series
Salvia Seed, Cathedral Series
Salvia Seed, Cathedral Series
Salvia Seed, Cathedral Series
Salvia Seed, Cathedral Series
Salvia Seed, Cathedral Series
Salvia Seed, Cathedral Series
Salvia Seed, Cathedral Series

Salvia Seed, Cathedral Series

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Blooms quickly and displays rich color well into late summer.
The true workhorse of our test gardens last summer, this Salvia farinacea continues to impress no matter the conditions. Full, branching plants come into bloom quickly and display rich color well into late summer. The large 3-4" flower spikes are awash in rich deep blue, cooling sky blue and crisp, clean white. We planted several containers of them for display around the patio and a bed of the Deep Blue in the garden bed to attract the butterflies and hummingbirds. It worked like a charm.

Salvia may be grown from seed sown early indoors and transplanted outside after frost, or planted as a potted plant.
Sowing Seed Indoors:

  • Sow salvia indoors 10-12 weeks before the last frost.
  • Sow seed thinly and evenly and barely press into seed starting formula.
  • Keep evenly moist.
  • Seedlings emerge in 15-21 days.
  • As soon as seedlings emerge, provide plenty of light on a sunny windowsill or grow seedlings 3-4 inches beneath fluorescent plant lights turned on 16 hours per day, off for 8 hours at night. Raise the lights as the plants grow taller. Incandescent bulbs will not work for this process because they will get too hot. Most plants require a dark period to grow, do not leave lights on for 24 hours.
  • Seedlings do not need much fertilizer, feed when they are 3-4 weeks old using a starter solution (half strength of a complete indoor houseplant food) according to manufacturer’s directions.
  • If you are growing in small cells, you may need to transplant the seedlings to 3 or 4 inch pots when seedlings have at least 2 pairs of true leaves before transplanting to the garden so they have enough room to develop strong roots
  • Before planting in the garden, seedling plants need to be “hardened off”. Accustom young plants to outdoor conditions by moving them to a sheltered place outside for a week. Be sure to protect them from wind and hot sun at first. If frost threatens at night, cover or bring containers indoors, then take them out again in the morning.  This hardening off process toughens the plant’s cell structure and reduces transplant shock and scalding.

Planting in the Garden:

  • Select a location in full sun with good rich moist organic, well-draining soil.
  • Prepare the bed by turning the soil under to a depth of 6-12, inches removing any debris, and lightly raking as level as possible.
  • The addition of organic matter (leaf mold, compost, well-rotted manure) benefits all gardens and is essential in recently constructed neighborhoods.
  • Plant on a cloudy day or in late afternoon to reduce transplant shock.
  • Dig a hole for each plant, approximately 12-16 inches apart large enough to amply accommodate the root ball. 
  • Unpot the plant and gently loosen the root ball with your hands to encourage good root growth. 
  • Place the top of the root ball even with the level of the surrounding soil. Fill with soil to the top of the root ball. Press soil down firmly with your hand. 
  • Use the plant tag as a location marker. 
  • Thoroughly water and apply a light mulch layer on top of the soil (1-2 inches) to conserve water and reduce weeds.
  • Keep weeds under control during the growing season. Weeds compete with plants for water, space and nutrients, so control them by either cultivating often or use a mulch to prevent their seeds from germinating. 
  • Mulches also help retain soil moisture and maintain even soil temperatures. For annuals an organic mulch of shredded leaves lends a natural look to the bed and will improve the soil as it breaks down in time. Always keep mulches off a plant’s stems to prevent possible rot.
  • Keep plants well-watered during the growing season, especially during dry spells. Plants need about 1 inch of rain per week during the growing season. Use a rain gauge to check to see if you need to add water. It's best to water with a drip or trickle system that delivers water at low pressure at the soil level. If you water with overhead sprinklers, water early in the day so the foliage has time to dry off before evening, to minimize disease problems. Keep the soil moist but not saturated.
  • Until plants become established, some protection from extreme winds and direct, hot sunlight may be necessary.  Good air movement is also important.
  • After new growth appears, a light fertilizer may be applied. Keep granular fertilizers away from the plant crown and foliage to avoid burn injury. Use low rates of a slow release, as higher rates may encourage root rots.
  • Remove spent flower spikes to encourage flowering and prevent seed development. Pinching the growing tips of plants can encourage bushiness.
  • Monitor for pests and diseases. Check with your local Cooperative Extension Service for pest controls recommended for your 
  • Provide plants with extra water in dry weather.
  • Deadheading is recommended to keep plants blooming.
  • These versatile, colorful plants are widely grown in annual gardens, perennial gardens, mixed borders, formal mass plantings, herb gardens, wildflower gardens, cottage gardens, and containers.
  • Compact cultivars add excitement to window boxes.
  • Tall stemmed types are great for cutting.